Jewelry Glossary

Buying or selling jewelry comes with a vocabulary all its own. This glossary breaks down the terms, hallmarks, and acronyms you'll run into so you can shop with confidence.

A

Alloy: A blend of two or more metals created to improve strength, color, or durability. Most jewelry gold and silver is an alloy rather than the pure metal.
American Gem SocietyAGS: A respected gemological organization known for its strict cut grading on a 0-to-10 scale. AGS reports are valued especially for evaluating diamond cut quality.
Amethyst: The purple variety of quartz and the birthstone for February. It is durable, affordable, and ranges from pale lilac to deep violet.
Antique Jewelry: Jewelry that is generally at least 100 years old. Antique pieces are valued for their craftsmanship, materials, and historical period.
Appraisal: A professional evaluation of a jewelry piece's value, put in writing by a qualified appraiser. The stated value can differ greatly depending on the appraisal's purpose.
Aquamarine: The light blue to blue-green variety of beryl, related to emerald. It is the March birthstone and is prized for its clear, calm sea-blue color.
Art Deco: A 1920s and 1930s style marked by bold geometric shapes, symmetry, and contrasting colors. It remains highly collectible and influences modern design.
Art Nouveau: A turn-of-the-century style featuring flowing, organic lines inspired by flowers, vines, and the female form. It often used enamel and emphasized artistry over costly stones.
Assay: A test that determines the precious metal content and purity of a piece. Assaying confirms whether a stamp such as 18K is accurate.
Asscher Cut: A square step cut with cropped corners and a deep, layered appearance. It has an Art Deco feel and emphasizes clarity over flashy sparkle.

B

Baguette: A small, long rectangular step-cut stone often used as an accent beside a center diamond. Baguettes add a clean, geometric sparkle to a design.
Bar Setting: A setting that holds stones in place with metal bars on two sides, leaving the other sides open. It lets light in while keeping a row of stones secure.
Base Metal: A common, inexpensive metal such as copper, brass, or nickel used in costume jewelry or as a core under plating. Base metals are not precious and can tarnish or irritate skin.
Basket: A cage-like part of a setting made of prongs and connecting wires that cradles the stone from below. It lets light enter the stone from the sides.
Bezel Setting: A setting that surrounds a stone with a thin metal rim holding it in place. It protects the stone's edges well and gives a sleek, modern look.
Birthstone: A gemstone traditionally associated with a person's birth month, such as garnet for January or sapphire for September. Birthstones are popular for personalized and gift jewelry.
Blemish: A surface imperfection on a diamond, such as a scratch, nick, or polish line. Blemishes affect clarity but are on the outside rather than inside the stone.
Bridge Jewelry: A category that sits between costume and fine jewelry, often using sterling silver and semi-precious stones. It offers quality materials at a more accessible price.
Brilliance: The brightness of a diamond created by white light reflecting back to the eye. Strong brilliance is a sign of a well-proportioned cut.

C

Cabochon: A gemstone shaped with a smooth, rounded, polished dome and no facets. This style is often used for opals, turquoise, and stones that show special optical effects.
Caratct: The standard unit of weight for diamonds and gemstones, equal to 0.2 grams. Larger carat weights are rarer and usually cost more per carat, not just more overall.
Channel Setting: A setting that secures a row of stones between two parallel metal walls with no prongs between them. It protects the stones and gives a smooth, sleek band.
Clarity: A measure of how free a diamond is from internal inclusions and surface blemishes. Higher clarity means fewer or less visible flaws under 10x magnification.
Clarity Enhanced: A diamond whose clarity has been artificially improved, often by filling surface-reaching fractures to make them less visible. These stones cost less and require disclosure.
Cluster Setting: A setting that groups several small stones together to look like one larger stone. It offers more sparkle and size for the price.
Color: For white diamonds, color measures how little tint a stone has, with less color being rarer and more valuable. For colored gemstones, color instead refers to the desirability of the hue itself.
Colorless: Diamonds graded D, E, or F that show no visible body color, even to a trained eye. These are the rarest and most expensive color grades on the D-to-Z scale.
Costume Jewelry: Decorative jewelry made from non-precious materials such as base metals, glass, and plastic. It is affordable and fashion-driven rather than made of fine materials.
Crown: The upper portion of a cut diamond, above the widest point, made up of the table and the surrounding angled facets. The crown helps disperse light into flashes of color.
Cubic ZirconiaCZ: An inexpensive lab-made diamond simulant that mimics a diamond's look. It is softer and less durable than diamond or moissanite and can dull over time.
Culet: The tiny facet or point at the very bottom tip of a diamond's pavilion. Modern diamonds often have no culet or a very small one.
Cultured Pearl: A pearl grown with human help by inserting a small bead or tissue into a mollusk. Most pearls sold today are cultured, including saltwater Akoya and South Sea types.
Cushion Cut: A square or rectangular shape with rounded corners, resembling a pillow. It has a soft, vintage look and shows fire well.
Cut: How well a diamond's facets are proportioned, angled, and finished, which controls how much it sparkles. Cut is judged separately from a stone's shape and is often considered the most important of the Four Cs.
Cut Grade: An overall rating of how well a diamond is cut, typically ranging from Excellent or Ideal down to Poor. It reflects proportions, symmetry, and polish combined.

D

Diamond CertificateCert: An official report from an independent lab grading a diamond's Four Cs and other details. A certificate from a respected lab gives buyers confidence in what they are paying for.
Diamond Color ScaleD-Z: The industry grading scale that runs from D (completely colorless) to Z (light yellow or brown). Stones with more color than Z, or with strong distinct color, are graded separately as fancy color diamonds.

E

Edwardian Era: A jewelry period in the early 1900s known for delicate, lacy platinum work and intricate filigree. It favored light, elegant designs with diamonds and pearls.
Emerald: The green variety of the mineral beryl and one of the big three colored gems. Most emeralds contain visible inclusions and are commonly oil-treated to improve clarity.
Emerald Cut: A rectangular step-cut shape with long, straight facets and cut corners. It produces a clear, hall-of-mirrors look rather than intense sparkle, so a higher clarity stone is preferred.
Enamel: Colored glass powder fused onto metal with heat to create durable, vivid decoration. It appears in many antique, vintage, and designer pieces.
Engraving: Decorative or personalized text and designs cut into metal. It is used for initials, dates, and patterns on rings and other jewelry.
Estate Jewelry: Any previously owned jewelry, regardless of age. The term covers everything from recent secondhand pieces to true antiques.
European Gemological LaboratoryEGL: A diamond grading lab whose standards have historically been considered more lenient than GIA. Buyers should compare an EGL grade carefully against stricter labs.
Eye-Clean: A term for a diamond with no inclusions visible to the naked eye at normal viewing distance. An eye-clean stone can look flawless to a shopper even at lower clarity grades.

F

Facet: One of the flat, polished surfaces cut into a diamond or gemstone. Facets are arranged to reflect and refract light, creating sparkle.
Faceted: A stone cut with many small flat surfaces to reflect light and create sparkle. Most transparent gems are faceted to bring out their brilliance.
Faint Color: Diamonds graded K, L, or M that show a faint warmth or yellow tone, often noticeable in larger stones. They are typically more affordable than colorless grades.
Fair Market ValueFMV: The price a piece would realistically sell for between a willing buyer and seller. It is often used for estate, tax, and resale purposes and is lower than replacement value.
Fancy Color Diamond: A natural diamond with a distinct, attractive body color such as yellow, pink, blue, or green. These are graded on their own scale by intensity and can be extremely valuable.
Filigree: Delicate, lace-like metalwork made from thin twisted wires. It is common in antique and vintage jewelry for an ornate, airy look.
Fine Jewelry: Jewelry made from precious metals like gold and platinum set with genuine gemstones. It is built to last and holds value better than costume pieces.
Fire: The flashes of rainbow color a diamond gives off as it splits white light into the spectrum. Well-cut diamonds show more fire.
FlawlessFL: The highest clarity grade, given to diamonds with no inclusions or blemishes visible under 10x magnification. Truly flawless diamonds are very rare and command premium prices.
Fluorescence: A glow, usually blue, that some diamonds give off under ultraviolet light. Faint fluorescence is generally harmless, while strong fluorescence can sometimes make a stone look hazy.
Freshwater Pearl: A cultured pearl grown in freshwater mussels, usually in lakes and ponds. These pearls are affordable and come in many shapes and soft colors.

G

Gallery: The decorative open metalwork on the underside of a ring's setting, below the center stone. It can be plain or detailed and affects how the ring looks from the side.
Garnet: A group of gemstones most known for deep red, though they also occur in green, orange, and other colors. Garnet is the birthstone for January and is durable enough for daily wear.
Gemological Institute of AmericaGIA: A widely trusted nonprofit lab that created the Four Cs grading system and issues diamond reports. A GIA certificate is considered a gold standard in the industry.
Gemstone: A naturally occurring mineral or organic material cut and polished for use in jewelry. Gemstones include diamonds, colored stones, and materials like pearl and amber.
Girdle: The thin band around the widest edge of a diamond where the crown meets the pavilion. It is often where a stone is gripped by its setting.
Gold FilledGF: A metal made by bonding a thick layer of real gold over a base metal core. It wears far longer than gold plating but contains much less gold than solid gold pieces.
Gold PlatedGP: A base metal covered with a very thin layer of gold. The coating is inexpensive but wears off over time, exposing the metal underneath.
Gypsy Setting: A setting where the stone sits flush within the metal so its top is level with the surface. Also called a flush setting, it protects the stone and suits rugged daily wear.

H

Hallmark: An official stamp on metal jewelry indicating its purity, and sometimes its maker or origin. Hallmarks like 14K or 925 help buyers verify what a piece is made of.
Halo Setting: A ring of small stones encircling a larger center stone. The halo makes the center look bigger and adds extra sparkle.
Hardness: A gemstone's resistance to scratching, measured on the Mohs scale. Harder stones hold up better in rings and bracelets that take daily knocks.
Head: The part of a ring mounting that holds the center stone, usually made of prongs or a basket. It is the component that grips and displays the gem.
Heart Cut: A brilliant-cut shape formed like a heart, essentially a pear with a cleft at the top. It is a romantic, symbolic choice that requires skilled cutting for symmetry.
Heat Treatment: Controlled heating used to permanently improve a gemstone's color or clarity, very common in sapphire and ruby. Heated stones are widely accepted but typically worth less than untreated ones.

I

I1I1: The highest of the Included grades, with inclusions visible to the naked eye but generally not threatening the stone's durability. It is the most acceptable choice within the Included tier.
I2I2: A lower Included grade with prominent inclusions that reduce brilliance and may slightly affect durability. Stones at this grade are inexpensive and best inspected in person.
I3I3: The lowest clarity grade, with large or numerous inclusions that are obvious and can weaken the diamond. These stones are the least costly and lowest in sparkle.
Ideal Cut: A top cut grade describing proportions that maximize a diamond's brilliance and fire. Some labs use Ideal while others use Excellent for the highest tier.
Illusion Setting: A setting with a reflective metal frame around a stone to make it look larger than it is. It was popular in mid-century jewelry to stretch the look of small diamonds.
IncludedI: The lowest clarity tier, covering I1, I2, and I3, where inclusions are visible to the naked eye and may affect sparkle or durability. These are the most affordable clarity grades.
Inclusion: A natural internal feature in a diamond or gemstone, such as a tiny crystal, feather, or cloud, formed as the stone grew. The number, size, and position of inclusions affect the clarity grade.
Insurance Appraisal: An appraisal that states the cost to replace a piece at retail, used to set insurance coverage. This value is usually the highest type of appraised value.
Internally FlawlessIF: A clarity grade for diamonds with no internal inclusions under 10x magnification, though minor surface blemishes may be present. It sits just below Flawless on the clarity scale.
International Gemological InstituteIGI: A global diamond and jewelry grading lab, commonly used for lab-grown diamonds and finished jewelry. IGI reports are widely seen in the retail market.

J

Jade: A tough green ornamental stone that comes in two forms, jadeite and nephrite. Prized in many cultures, fine translucent green jadeite can be very valuable.

K

KaratK: The measure of gold purity out of 24 parts, so 24K is pure gold. Lower numbers like 14K mean less gold and more alloy metals for strength.

L

Lab-Grown Diamond: A real diamond produced in a laboratory that is chemically and optically identical to a mined diamond. Also called lab-created or synthetic, it typically costs less than a natural diamond.
Liquidation Value: The amount a piece would bring in a quick or forced sale, such as selling to a dealer. It is typically the lowest of the common appraised values.

M

Maker's Mark: A small stamp identifying the manufacturer or designer of a piece. It helps confirm authenticity and can increase a piece's collectibility and value.
Marquise Cut: An elongated shape with pointed ends, designed to look large for its carat weight. Its narrow oval outline can make a finger appear longer.
Milgrain: A row of tiny beaded detail along the edges of a piece, often used to add a vintage feel. The word comes from the idea of a thousand grains of metal.
Mixed Cut: A stone that combines brilliant-style facets on one part and step-cut facets on another. It aims to balance sparkle with a clean outline, common in colored gemstones.
Mohs Scale: A 1-to-10 scale ranking how well a mineral resists scratching, with diamond at 10. It helps shoppers judge how durable a gemstone is for everyday wear.
Moissanite: A lab-created diamond alternative that is nearly as hard and shows even more fire. It looks similar to a diamond at a much lower price but is a distinct material.
Mounting: The metal framework of a ring or piece of jewelry before or apart from its center stone. Shoppers often buy a mounting and add a stone of their choice.

N

Natural Diamond: A diamond formed in the earth over millions of years and mined from the ground. It differs in origin, though not in chemistry, from a lab-grown diamond.
Near Colorless: Diamonds graded G through J that have only a slight tint, usually invisible once the stone is set in jewelry. They offer a good balance of appearance and price.
Nickel: A common alloy metal sometimes used in white gold and costume jewelry. It is a frequent cause of skin allergies, so nickel-free options are valued by sensitive wearers.

O

Old European Cut: An early round diamond cut, the predecessor to the modern round brilliant, with a small table and high crown. It is valued in antique and vintage pieces for its distinctive character.
Old Mine Cut: An early cushion-shaped diamond cut by hand, with a small table, high crown, and large culet. Common before the 20th century, it has a warm, romantic glow prized in antique jewelry.
Onyx: A solid black variety of chalcedony quartz, often polished smooth for rings and beads. Much commercial onyx is dyed to deepen its color.
Opal: A gemstone known for play-of-color, a flashing rainbow effect that shifts as it moves. It is relatively soft and needs gentle care to avoid scratches and cracks.
Oval Cut: An elongated round brilliant shape that offers similar sparkle while appearing larger for its weight. Its lengthening effect is flattering on the finger.

P

PalladiumPd: A lightweight white precious metal in the platinum family. It offers a naturally white color without rhodium plating and is hypoallergenic for many wearers.
Pave: A setting in which many tiny stones are placed close together to create a continuous sparkling surface. The small beads of metal holding them are nearly hidden.
Pavilion: The lower, cone-shaped portion of a cut diamond below the girdle. Its angle is critical for reflecting light back up through the top of the stone.
Pear Cut: A teardrop shape combining a rounded end with a single point. It is used in rings and pendants and can be worn with the point facing up or down.
Pearl: An organic gem formed inside a mollusk from layers of nacre. Pearls can be natural, cultured, or freshwater, and they require gentle handling because they are soft.
Peridot: A yellow-green gemstone and the birthstone for August. Its lively lime to olive color comes from the stone itself rather than any treatment.
PlatinumPt: A dense, naturally white precious metal prized for its strength and purity. It holds gemstones securely and resists tarnish, but it is heavier and pricier than gold.
Polish: The smoothness and quality of a diamond's facet surfaces after cutting. High polish lets light pass cleanly without micro-scratches dulling the shine.
Precious vs Semi-Precious: A traditional split that labels diamond, ruby, sapphire, and emerald as precious and most other gems as semi-precious. The terms reflect history and rarity more than guaranteed value, since some semi-precious stones can be costly.
Princess Cut: A square or rectangular brilliant-cut shape with sharp corners and strong sparkle. It is a popular modern choice for engagement rings.
Prong Setting: A setting that holds a stone with small metal claws bent over its edges. It lets in the most light for maximum sparkle but should be checked for wear over time.
Proportions: The relationships between a diamond's measurements, such as table size, depth, and angles. Good proportions allow light to reflect ideally and drive the cut grade.
Provenance: The documented history of ownership of a piece of jewelry. Strong provenance, especially a famous prior owner, can add significantly to value.

R

Radiant Cut: A square or rectangular shape with cut corners and brilliant faceting for lots of sparkle. It blends the outline of an emerald cut with the fire of a round.
Repousse: A metalworking technique that pushes a design out from the back to create raised relief on the front. It produces detailed, three-dimensional ornamentation in antique pieces.
Retro Era: A 1940s style featuring large, bold designs in yellow and rose gold, influenced by Hollywood glamour. Pieces often have a chunky, three-dimensional look.
Rhodium Plating: A thin coating of rhodium applied to white gold and silver for a bright, reflective white finish. It wears off gradually and is reapplied to keep the piece looking new.
Rose Cut: An antique cutting style with a flat bottom and a dome of triangular facets meeting at a point, resembling a rosebud. It gives a soft, glowing shine rather than bright sparkle.
Rose Gold: Gold with a pink hue created by adding more copper to the alloy. Its warm, romantic color has made it popular for rings and watches.
Round Brilliant: The most popular diamond shape, with 57 or 58 facets engineered to maximize sparkle. Its round outline and brilliant faceting make it the benchmark for fire and brilliance.
Ruby: The red variety of the mineral corundum and one of the big three colored gems. Its value depends heavily on the richness of its red, with vivid pure red being most prized.

S

Sapphire: A gem variety of corundum, most famous in blue but also found in pink, yellow, and other colors. It is durable at 9 on the Mohs scale, making it excellent for everyday rings.
Scintillation: The sparkle and play of light and dark flashes seen as a diamond or the viewer moves. It comes from the pattern and number of facets.
Setting: The way a stone is held in place on a piece of jewelry, and the part of the piece that secures it. The setting style affects both the look and the security of the stone.
Shank: The band portion of a ring that encircles the finger. Its width and shape affect comfort and how the ring sits.
SI1SI1: The higher Slightly Included grade, with inclusions easily seen under magnification but usually not visible to the naked eye. Often a smart budget choice when the stone faces up clean.
SI2SI2: The lower Slightly Included grade, with inclusions that are obvious under 10x magnification and sometimes visible without it. Buying SI2 rewards inspecting the actual stone closely.
Signed Piece: A piece of jewelry stamped with the name or mark of a recognized designer or maker. Signed pieces from prestigious houses often command higher prices.
Slightly IncludedSI: A clarity tier covering SI1 and SI2, where inclusions are noticeable under 10x magnification and may occasionally be visible to a sharp naked eye. These grades offer good value if the stone is eye-clean.
Solitaire: A piece featuring a single stone with no accent gems. The classic solitaire engagement ring puts all the focus on one diamond.
Step Cut: A faceting style with long, parallel facets arranged in rows like steps, seen in emerald and Asscher cuts. It produces a sleek, mirror-like effect and rewards high clarity.
Sterling Silver925: An alloy of 92.5 percent silver and 7.5 percent other metals, usually copper, for added strength. It is commonly stamped 925 and may tarnish over time.
Symmetry: How precisely a diamond's facets align and mirror each other. Better symmetry improves light performance and is part of the cut grade.
Synthetic Diamond: Another term for a lab-grown diamond, meaning one made by people rather than mined. Synthetic refers to origin and does not mean fake or imitation.
Synthetic Gemstone: A lab-created stone with the same chemistry and properties as its natural counterpart. It is a real version of the gem made by people rather than mined.

T

Table: The large flat facet on the very top of a cut diamond, named because it resembles a tabletop. Its size relative to the stone affects how light enters and how the diamond sparkles.
Tanzanite: A blue-violet gemstone found only in Tanzania, usually heat-treated to bring out its color. It is softer than sapphire, so it suits pendants and earrings better than everyday rings.
Tension Setting: A setting that appears to hold a stone in place by the pressure of the metal band alone. It creates a striking floating look for the gem.
The Big Three: A nickname for the three most important colored gemstones: ruby, sapphire, and emerald. They are the classic precious colored stones alongside diamond.
The Four Cs4Cs: The four main factors used to grade and price a diamond: carat, cut, color, and clarity. Together they describe a diamond's quality and largely determine its value.
Three-Stone: A design with a center stone flanked by two side stones, often said to represent past, present, and future. It is a popular style for engagement and anniversary rings.
Topaz: A durable gemstone found in many colors, with blue and golden imperial topaz being popular. Many blue topaz stones on the market are treated to enhance their color.
Transparency: How much light passes through a gemstone, described as transparent, translucent, or opaque. Transparent stones let light through clearly, while opaque stones block it entirely.
Treated Diamond: A diamond whose appearance has been altered by processes such as laser drilling, fracture filling, or color enhancement. Treatments should always be disclosed because they affect value.
Treatment: Any process used to improve a gemstone's color, clarity, or durability, such as heating, oiling, or dyeing. Treatments are common and should be disclosed since they affect value and care.
Trillion Cut: A triangular shape with three sides, used as a center stone or as side accents. Also called trilliant, it gives a bright, modern look.
Turquoise: An opaque blue to green gemstone often cut as a cabochon and used in Southwestern jewelry. It is porous and soft, so it needs protection from chemicals and hard knocks.

V

Vermeil: Sterling silver coated with a thick layer of gold, meeting a legal minimum thickness in the US. It offers a gold look over a precious metal base.
Very Slightly IncludedVS: A clarity tier covering VS1 and VS2, where inclusions are minor and seen only with effort under 10x magnification. These diamonds are eye-clean and popular for their value.
Very Very Slightly IncludedVVS: A clarity tier covering grades VVS1 and VVS2, where inclusions are so tiny they are difficult for even a skilled grader to see under 10x magnification. These stones look perfectly clean to the naked eye.
Victorian Era: A jewelry period from roughly 1837 to 1901, named for Queen Victoria's reign. It features romantic, nature-inspired motifs, lockets, and mourning jewelry.
Vintage Jewelry: Jewelry typically between about 20 and 100 years old, evoking a past era's style. Vintage pieces are usually older than secondhand but younger than antique.
VS1VS1: The higher Very Slightly Included grade, with small inclusions that are hard to see under magnification and invisible without it. A common sweet spot for quality versus cost.
VS2VS2: The lower Very Slightly Included grade, with slightly more noticeable inclusions under 10x magnification that still cannot be seen with the naked eye. It is one of the most popular clarity grades for buyers.
VVS1VVS1: The higher of the two Very Very Slightly Included grades, with minute inclusions that are extremely hard to spot under 10x magnification. Inclusions, if any, are usually near the edge rather than the center.
VVS2VVS2: The lower Very Very Slightly Included grade, with tiny inclusions slightly easier to detect than VVS1 but still invisible to the naked eye. It offers near top clarity at a lower price than VVS1.

W

White Gold: Gold alloyed with white metals to give a silvery look, usually finished with rhodium plating for extra shine. The plating wears over time and can be reapplied.

Y

Yellow Gold: Gold in its classic warm color, achieved by alloying pure gold with metals like copper and zinc. The exact shade depends on the karat and the alloy mix.

#

10 Karat Gold10K: Gold that is about 42 percent pure, the minimum that can be legally called gold in the US. It is the most durable and affordable karat but has a paler color.
14 Karat Gold14K: Gold that is about 58 percent pure, the most common standard for jewelry in the US. It balances good color with strong durability for daily wear.
18 Karat Gold18K: Gold that is 75 percent pure, offering a rich color with better durability than 24K. It is a popular choice for fine jewelry.
24 Karat Gold24K: Pure gold with no added alloys, giving the richest yellow color. It is soft and easily scratched, so it is less common in everyday US jewelry.